City Smells
May 15, 2001


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Easter Sunday
I know I complained about the reek of cigarette smoke yesterday, and yes, it is awful in certain busy sections of the corporate centers in Manhatten. This afternoon, however, on the walk home I think I may have topped that smell. As I made my way through Chinatown, I happened to venture past several open-air fish markets.

Whee-hoo! The smell of fish simply lights up the block for several stores before and after each market. The markets themselves don't actually have any front walls or doors and the fish is just laid out on vast tables of ice. The bright smell of fish is absolutely overwhelming in the mid-afternoon air.

But at the same time, there's something almost pleasing about the smell. While the fish smells quite strongly, it still a few steps shy of actually reeking. The seafood tables, while agressively aromatic, really don't contain any rotten product. In fact, the fish itself looked quite fresh and tasty. But boy that smell is something.

A bit further on in my walk, I came upon an even greater smell. I crossed from Chinatown north into Little Italy as I made my way up the east side this afternoon. A block or so down one particular side street packed with cafes, my nose suddenly lifted into the breeze as I neared one white-fronted shop.

The absolutely wonderful smell of an Italian bakery rolled out the open front door and into the street. I literally stopped in my tracks and stood in front of the display window packed with cookies for a good long minute, breathing in the lovely scent.

Soon I could take no more. The smell was overwhelming. I turned, shouldered my bag, and walked straight into the store. From wall to wall, the small shop was lined with display cases full of wonderful little cookies and pastries. I was overcome with delight as I ordered three travel-sized cannolis to go.

Oh how delicious they were.

The smells of the city vary widely and while some may be offensive and awful, others are just as powerful and that much more pleasant.

Now if I can just remember where that bakery was for tomorrow's walk.



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